Hi, Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns. (www.AsWoodTurns.com) In my woodturning projects, I use several different finishes generally determined by the type of project it is and the size of the project. For example, if I want it to be food safe I will use walnut oil or a mix of beeswax and mineral oil. Hmmm. Smells good. but it is almost time to make some more. For larger projects, I’ll use lacquer or walnut oil and for smaller projects, I’ll use either shellac or lacquer or there’s always an advantage in any project of using beeswax and mineral oil because it is a good utility finish and doubles as a sanding media It is also time now to upgrade the containers that I’m using for the finishes I lost the lid to this one I lost the lid to this one also. I did not have a container for my lacquer. I was using it directly from the can. So, I purchases a kit, a finishing jar kit, from Craft Supplies USA. and I brought it home. I bought it primarily because I did not think I could get a jar with a handle on it. Well, it turns out that when I got home, my wife said “hey, I have a half a dozen of these They are very common in preserving fruit and canning. So… This one is a kit. This one is not a kit. This one is a spice jar with an acid brush embedded in it. So I can use it Actually, I made this cap for the lid to decorate it but, somehow, it did not get on there when I was gluing it together So I’ll have to use it on a future jar. So, let’s make, today, a kit version, a non kit version from scratch and a small spice jar version. I’m starting with the kit. It comes with
a pint jar, wood for the handle, 1 ½” screw, and a brush with the handle sawn off. I’ve
carefully mounted the brush in long neck jaws holding on to just the bristles below the
metal and centering the cut handle. This should be enough since the only task here is to drill
an 1/8” hole about ¾” deep into the handle. This is awkward on a lathe but I could not
see doing any better on a drill press. Now for the handle. First, I want to drill
the corresponding hole for the screw using the long neck jaws.
Then remount the handle between centers with the live center in the hole I just drilled.
I want a simple shape for the handle. This is a utility object – The handle does not
need to be an intricate finial. I want the handle to fit my hand with sort of a knob
on the top to ensure it does not easily slip from my hand.
After sanding, since this is a utility object, I’m finishing with beeswax and mineral oil
mix, parting off the top, and touching up the tippy top.
To assemble, I’m drilling the lid with the same 1/8” hole. Then driving the screw half
way into the handle. Then a short trip to the grinder to grind off the screw’s head.
Finally twist on the brush and it’s ready to fill and use.
Next I’m turning the smaller spice jar cover and brush holder. I’m mounting a scrap piece
of walnut in the deep shark jaws. After a little rounding, I’m cutting a tenon on
one end. Whoops it was a little too small. I need to repeat the tenon a little larger.
My tenon template broke – I need to make a new one.
Now, I’m reversing the walnut onto the tenon. After a little bit of trimming, I’ll drill
a recess for the jar’s lid. The recess will be a little smaller and shallower than the
lid. Then enlarge the recess to fit the lid with a square corner scraper.
Then switch over to a 5/16” drill for the center. Then I switched to a ¼” drill so
the brush handle would be a tight fit. Now I’m remounting the walnut between centers
using the previous mark on the headstock and the hole for the live center. I’m using
a cone for a live center. Now I can shape a simple cap and integrated handle.
Then sand, finish with beeswax and mineral oil before assembling with a press fit. If
it loosen over time, I will add some epoxy but it does not look like I need it now.
Now for the pint jar from scratch. Previously, I glued two pieces of pine to both sides of
the wooden brush handle. Now I’m mounting the pine into the deep shark jaws with the
bristles somewhat bent inside the jaws. I’m centering the live center on the center of
the brush handle before tightening the scroll chuck. Now I’m turning the handle down to
½”. I’ve cut down close to the metal on the brush. Later I decided the brush was
too high in the jar and made a spacer. Instead, I could have left more of the pine to serve
that purpose. Next, I’m reversing the brush into the long
nose jaws. Now I’m turning down the remainder of the pine very carefully to avoid having
the skew hit the metal. As noted, I should have left this wood in place a bit longer
and avoided the risk. I broke away the remaining thin short grain pine.
How about a little maple to cover the lid. I am mounting a 1” thick square to the face
of the scroll chuck jaws with tail stock pressure while I do some initial roughing and cut a
tenon. Next I’m reversing the maple onto the tenon
into the chuck. The task now is to cut a mortise or recess to fit the jar’s lid. I’m using
a gouge to hog out some of the middle and a square corner scraper to cut the walls.
As usual, this is a cut, test, cut test, cut test process until the lid fits. If I did
not have a square corner scraper, I would use my skew for this work.
As I prepare to drill a ½” hole for the brush handle, I’m doing this lid a little
differently. Rather than drill the lid separately, I’m securing the lid into the recess with
duct tape. Then drilling the metal lid and a hole thru the maple at the same time. This
will ensure alignment. Now I’m reversing the maple with an expansion
hold onto the chuck. The lid size is also a perfect expansion mortise. I’m checking
the thickness to make sure it’s not too thick or too thin.
Then sand and finish this piece. Now I’m mounting another piece of scrap
walnut to the long nose jaws. I need to make a spacer to hold the brush lower in the jar.
Leaving the pine longer would have avoided this step. The spacer is just a piece about
1 ½” long with a ½” hole in the center for the brush handle.
Next, I’m mounting a walnut spindle between centers. This will be the upper brush handle.
After some roughing, I’m cutting a tenon on the end. Size is not critical except to
fit my long nose jaws. Now, swap out the centers for the chuck and
remount the spindle. This mount is so that I can drill the end to fit the brush handle.
After some roughing, I’m drilling the ½” brush hole.
Then capture the end with a cone live center. This will stabilize the walnut while I shape
a simple handle. Here again, it is a simple handle to fit my hand with a knob to avoid
slipping off. And sand, finish and assemble. The only problem
was that I did not include the lid cover in the glue up. I realize it too late after the
glue had grabbed. The complete kit was $12.85. The spice jar
was salvaged from our kitchen. The wood was scrap. A set of three acid brushes was $1.13
for the small jar. For the jar from scratch, the brush was $1.15, the wood was scrap. My
drinking jar was free but a set of 12 on Amazon is $19.09. I wish the jars were not glass
but if they were plastic, I’d worry about the solvents especially lacquer thinner attaching
the plastic. So I’ll just have to be careful with glass. These will serve me for a long
time. If I break one or need more, I’ll just turn another. I may put a balloon over
the bottom to reduce slipping. We’ll see you again next week for another
woodturning video. Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe and tell your friends.
Always wear your full face shield –goggles are not enough protection. Until next week,
this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot com.
Let’s keep turning.