We’re going to start out at about 1,000 RPM’s. I’ll keep you informed as we speed it up. I always have the tool parallel to the ground and I always have it flat on the rest. You don’t have to worry about any angles like you do with other tools, this one you just lay it flat and keep it level. I’m just standing here with one hand, I don’t know that the camera is in there far enough for you to see that But there’s no twisting, there’s no torque on the tool, the cutting edge is pretty well supported directly below it so we don’t have any grab. We’ve got a neutral rake angle, so there’s not any catching as the tool. We want to suck into the wood with other conventional gouges. Now I can rough a bowl out like that, or if I choose I can just stand in one spot and plunge the tool straight in. There’s no question about what angle to hold the tool, how to approach the stock, we keep it parallel to the floor and for 90% of the cuts, we keep it perpendicular to the lathe bed. On a lumpy piece or a piece with knots, the tool’s not going to be kicking back and bouncing on me. It stays good and flat and registered. There’s good support right under the cutting edge, so there’s not grabbing. I have a neutral cutting angle, so it’s not sucking into the piece. Start going to the right, tools flat on the rest, parallel to the ground, simple as that. That was a right hand cut, lets do a left hand cut. Got a chip deflector here that keeps 90% of the chips off my body. That was a left and right cut. Inserts about a half inch wide, take it for a full width cut.