Hey, I’m Craig Jackson. Today we’re going to turn this into this. Here we go. We’ve got a a 2″ x 2″ block of Cherry about four-and-a-half inches long. We’ve already marked the centers and made a dimple for my drive spur and one for the live center. First thing, I’m going to round out our piece using the Easy Rougher. You notice I have attached the chip deflector to keep the chips off my body. I need to travel the tool slowly for the final pass to get it really smooth. Next I need to shape out of tenon for our chuck to grab onto it. I need to angle the tenon to match the jaws on my chuck. I like to use our Easy Detailer to cut a shoulder relief to make sure my chuck has a good hold. Now i’m removing the blank from between center, so we can mount it in my chuck. We made a perfect tenon so it’ll fit nicely in the jaws. Just be sure to clamp down nice and tight. we’re not going to hollow out the cut just yet, so I can use the tailstock for added stability. Using the round cutter of the Easy Finsiher makes easy work of the curves on our goblet. Keeping the tool flat and level, we’re first going to shape the outside of the cup to help guide us as we hollow it out next. I don’t want to cut it too small or it’s going to vibrate when I go to hollow it out. The flat edge of the Easy Rougher is great for smoothing outside curves, but the length of the mid-size handle can sometimes get in the way, so I’ll finish this off with the shorter Mini Rougher which I can manipulate right in front of me. I like the curved edges of available R2 cutter for these final passes on outside curves to really make the surface uniform. Now we’ll remove the tailstock and move the tool rest around to the face so we can hollow out the cup. When you combine the length of the chuck and are blank here, you’ll see we have several inches of unsupported material hanging out. This can lead to vibrations so we’re going to take slow, careful cuts while hollowing out the cup. And again I’m moving my tool real slow across the surface for this final pass. My goal when hollowing is to end up with a uniform wall thickness. Now that we’ve got the hollowing done, we’ll start shaping the stem and the base. I like making a pencil mark for the base of our cup about an inch from the chuck jaws. This will give us room to cut the cup off when we’re finished. We’ll also mark where we want the top of our base, so we know where to stop cutting. As you shape out your stem, keep in mind there’s a variety of ways you can add details to make it your own. I decided to put a bead on mine using the Easy Detailer. You can create whatever you like. Once we have our stem where we want it, we’ll shape out the base. I like my bases to always be a little smaller than the cup, but there are no rules here just make it look the way you want it. Remember to travel the tool slowly on that last cut to get your best surface. The square cutter on the Easy Rougher makes it simple to have a nice little bevel to the base. Use the Easy Detailer to clear away some material before you start sanding. I like to do my sanding before I cut it all the way off. Start with some coarse grit and move to fine. Now will be a great time to apply some finish if you want. Finally we’ll use our Easy Detailer to help remove as much of the waist as possible. Get it down about a quarter-inch. I’m using a thin hand saw to cut the goblet off the waste part. Then I use a hand chisel to carefully remove anything left over. You know, making goblets is one of my favorite woodturning projects. I’m always amazed at the different varieties of shapes I can come up with is just a little block of wood this size. I think you’ll have fun too. Why don’t you give it a try?