Hey! It is Brent from Gray House Studio back this week showing you guys some details on how we made this headboard. Courtney was in here last week showing you around the whole room and I’m excited to show you this one specific project. To save some money I glues two 2x4s together for the legs and top board of the frame instead of buying 4x4s. I clamped the boards together and gave the glue some time to dry and once dry I cut the boards down to length with the miter saw and cut them to 3 inches square with the table saw. With all the boards for the frame cut to the correct size I set the table saw up to cut at a 22.5 degree angle and used that to cut the face of the frame. My blade was not quite long enough to cut all the way through the board so I turned the board over and finished the other side of the cut. The top of each leg and both sides of the top board of the frame were cut at a 45 degree angle to form a miter joint. Next, I cut the supports and bottom leg pieces to allow the frame to attach to the bed. The bottom leg pieces were cut from excess board from the 22.5 degree cut. This will offset the angle previously cut on the bottom of the leg so they are square and can attach to the bed. Before cutting the braces I measured the inside of the frame to know how long to cut each brace. For the center brace and the 6 small braces I used 1×4 inch pine furring strips and for the bottom brace I used a 2×4″. To attach all the boards together I used pocket hole screws and drilled pilot holes using a Kreg jig. To start assembling the frame I secured the top corners of the frame with one pocket hole screw the inside corner. Then I added the bottom brace making sure all the pocket holes were in the back. With the bottom brace attached I stood the frame up and drilled pilot holes in the top of the headboard. Because the wood in the corner of each miter joint is thin I couldn’t use pocket screws but sense the headboard is 5.5 feet tall these screws in the top won’t be noticeable. The 1×4 braces will all be covered up so it is fine to secure them to the frame with the pocket holes facing out. With the frame assembled I was ready to add the backing board to suppor the slats. I chose to use pegboard because it was cheap durable and already has holes in it. I placed some wood-glue on all the braces to attach the pegboard. and used paint cans and various other heavy things I had laying around the garage to hold the pegboard in place until the glue dried. The next day after the glue was setup I started laying out the 1×3 inch slats. I worked on each quadrant seperately and started by cutting the boards so they were slightly longer than they needed to be and sat flush against the frame. Then I used a measuring tape to mark the center of the headboard on those boards and used a straight edge to draw a line where all the boards needed to be cut. Then I did the same for the bottom of the boards. This made it very easy to ensure that all the boards were aligned perfectly after being cut at a 45 degree angle on both sides. While I worked cutting all the boards this way Courtney was hard at work staining each of the boards that were cut and there were tons of boards. Courtney has a great eye for varing the darkness of the stain so it looks balanced but yet random. After the stain dried we set the slats back on the pegboard and propped the headboard up on a chair to secure them through the back with half inch pan head screws. This is where the pegboard came in handy because I could see the edge of each slat and it made it easy to double check that all the screws went into the right boards and each slat was secured. Finally, with everything attached and dried we carried the headboard into the guest room and attached it to the bedframe with 2 inch screws and 1 inch large washers. If you enjoyed this headboard how to click the like button below to show us some love and as always follow our YouTube channel and checkout some of these video on the side We will post new videos each Thursday. You won’t want to miss it.