Hello and welcome in my little workshop! Well, not really. Today I will show you how I made this cradle. I started by cutting to length all my rough boards, with an addition of about 50 mm. I spare you all the cuts, you have understood. Then, using a newcomer to the workshop, I initially planed one face of each board. Then a side. Until they were perfectly perpendicular. Then I switched the machine to the planer mode to make a second face perfectly parallel to the first. For the last side, I used the table saw. These boards first allowed me to produce panels
with the right sizes. Because of the user of the cradle, I used the least toxic glue that I could find, Titebond III, suitable for food contact. To hold the boards in place during bonding, I used three bar clamps and two battens maintained by four more basic clamps. To be perfectly honest, it is nevertheless not always easy to get good straight panels. It must take some time to get the knack. I repeated the same procedure until I obtained four panels: two for the head and footboard, one for base and one for a shelf that will be located halfway up the base. Then I switched to the completion of the feet, cutting eight equal pieces. Then I glued in pairs. Clamped with jaws on each side. After drying, there was a small gap at the joint of two pieces. So I had to straighten one side with a power planer before making it square using the table saw. I took the opportunity to cut the head, footboard and spring box to size. I experienced a problem when cutting it: the panel would not move forward on the blade. In fact, my blade was too low (sometimes the advice is half a tooth above the thickness of the wood) and the panel was slightly curled, so it does not cut the thickness. So I slightly raised the blade. So I would be inclined to advise the height of a tooth above the piece to be cut. Then I sawed and cross-cut the pieces destined to become the cross at the top and bottom bars. Then came the of the panels using grain 40, 80, 120 and 240. I decided to round the top corners of the head and footboard, so I spotted an equidistant point from the top and side of the corners. Then I traced the round with a pair of school compasses. To round, given the relatively small amount of material to be removed, I used the support for belt sander that I made in the previous video. Then I realized the useful paths to the alignment of the sides. Before rounding the edges of three sides using the router and a quarter-round bit. I did the same on the bed base but I’ve rounded up all four sides on one side. On the other, I have rounded up the lengths, subtracted from the thickness of the head and footboard. Then I prepared to drill the holes that weredestined to accommodate the bars by plotting their locations. Then I rounded one side of all the sleepers. Before drilling all the holes. Again, I spare you all the pieces. I finally rounded a second side on two sleepers. A little more sanding… Then I could finally go to the first assemblies. Namely footboard and headboard with the bed base. For this, I realized the pilot holes from under the bed and I screwed. Then, one of the most delicate moments—you can also see that I trained on one side before recordind —: the sides, with the bars. I first set the lower cross by immobilizing with clamps. Before screwing from below. And on the sides. For the bars, I used beech dowels that I cut to length with a Japanese saw. Small problem: the dowels were sold to be 12 mm in diameter. So I bought a 12 mm bit… But the dowels were nearly a third of a millimeter too thick. We realize then that a millimeter is big! So I adjusted the ends of all the bars with my support for belt sander until they fit in the holes of the sleepers. Then I sanded them by hand to erase the traces of too aggressive sanding. Then I set up the bars in the lower rail. And positioned the the top rail. I screwed on the sides as the bottom one. The upper part of the cradle was finished, I started on the base, rounding a side sleeper to be used as the upper rails and base support to the mid-height shelf. More and more sanding! Then I prepared the pocket holes. For the top sleepers, I cut first at 45 ° off-camera, then I drilled perpendicular holes at four locations along the lengths, three along the widths. Then I screwed them as much as possible, using paths previously made. Then I spotted on the feet part that would be hidden by the belt. And I rounded the rest with the router. Before sanding … of course! At the base of the feet, I made a slight chamfer with 40 grain paper, and then I softened using 120 grain paper. The goal is to prevent splitting due to friction, when moving the cradle for example. I pre-drilled and milled two holes in each foot. Then I screwed the feet to the belt. Two screws are enough in this case, because the feet will also be connected by the sleepers that will support the shelf. I am preparing the assemblies of these sleepers. In parallel at each end and perpendicularly twice for length, once for widths. I finally fixed the sleepers with a homemade jig for the height from the ground and the offset from the corner of the foot. There remains only to cut the shelf to dimensions. And to round off the top edges. Note that to avoid tearing, it is better to first machine the end grain. The last sanding, finally! Then cutting the passage for the feet. And we slide the panel from the side, it fits perfectly. Then comes the time to fix from below with screws. There, that’s it! So a small evaluation as usual. I did not draw plans, but I should have: you can imagine your project as much as you want before moving to building, there are always small design problems that you miss. The advantage is that it requires to be clever. Then I spread three coats of varnish to the toy standard on the cradle, like that my daughter can bite her cradle with all her teeth, there is no risk of poisoning her. About standards and babies, two standards: the first requires that the spacing between the bars is a maximum of six centimeters (here I have five centimeters, so I’m good); and also requires that the distance between the top of the mattress and the top of the bars is twenty centimeters minimum (here I have twenty-five or thirty centimeters, I do not remember, so I am also good on this side) Here we are, then today you are more than three hundred subscribers to the channel: I am very happy, thanks to all of you. and I see you soon for a new video. Bye!